“Real fashion marches to the beat of its own drum” - Emily woodall
Is fashion in today’s world changing?
This was one of the questions we endeavoured to find out when we went along to visit Emily Woodall at her job in the Butterwalk store, Totnes. Emily is an up and coming seamstress, studying for her final year at Arts University of Plymouth, as well as working her way into the industry whilst working at Butterwalk. Whilst in her company we talked about the future of fashion, the message NAAi NAAi intends to send, and how continuing to march to the beat of your own drum can set you apart from the crowd and build the best foundation for the future. Take a read…
A Brief journey through Butterwalk.
The Butterwalk store, turning two this December, was founded and is still owned by Dutch born Suzanne, who is lovingly titled “creative director" by her team. It sits over three floors, on the first as you enter, you are met by the Curator coffee shop, one of two locations in Totnes, the local Coffee roasters rent the space at the front of the shop, but also make for the perfect pick up and window action. After you’ve collected your caffeine pick me up, you head towards the back of the store and are greeted with homewares, well-designed front covered books, and a sprinkling of the first signs of NAAi NAAi, the in-house clothing brand whose name translates to Sew Sew in Dutch. Stories and Info along the back wall invite you to climb the stairs to the main clothing shop floor, along a first floor emblazoned by homemade garments, all made on-site in the open, well-lit workshop overlooking the street from above.
All the team members within Butterwalk are unique as they work in rotation, if you spend a prolonged period in the shop, you see them go from sewing the finishing touches on a garment in the workshop, to manning the till all within a short period. Come to think of it, is this a coincidence, or is this all carefully planned out to correlate with the journey Naai Naai takes you on with its products. All made in a shop, with predominantly sustainably sourced local raw materials where possible, NAAi NAAi are doing it their way, a better way, and a way many can look to be inspired by.
Limited run, small batch styles fill the rails as you circle the parameter of the room glancing at all it has to offer. NAAi NAAi is an enlightening discovery for those who appreciate clothing with personality and a sense of sustainable luxury. This independent brand is a creative energy, seamlessly blending vintage-inspired designs with playful, modern twists. At NAAi NAAi, fashion isn’t about following trends; it’s about celebrating individuality through clothing that feels as light-hearted as it is distinctive.
The brand’s offerings are unmistakable, imagine classic prints and soft colours that bring a lighthearted touch to everyday wear. Each piece is thoughtfully crafted, with an emphasis on quality materials and sustainable choices that speak to Totnes' forward-thinking, eco-conscious spirit.
What truly sets NAAi NAAi apart is its reflection of Totnes’ unique character, the brand embodies the town’s creative and independent soul, appealing to those who embrace fashion as an expression of identity. For those who wander into the NAAi NAAi space, they’ll find more than just clothing; they’ll find individual garments, each carrying a story, a smile, and a little something unique. Butterwalk is a true collaboration of a team from different backgrounds, with everyone bringing their strengths.
It’s not a tailoring service, it’s already custom. It’s slow fashion, no seasons, small groups of releases regularly added, limiting waste and keeping customers intrigued as to what's to come next. It just works in Totnes, a town full of shops you want to explore and spend those little still moments in.
The Emily Woodall Moment.
Initially meeting Emily, she’s an unassuming 22-year-old, kind and polite, but like many of her ‘Janner’ faithful, once she starts talking about her passions, she doesn't stop. Luckily for us, we could have listened to her all day. Emily is an up and coming seamstress, studying for her final year at Arts University of Plymouth. Currently studying half the week, and spending two days a week at Butterwalk, she has split her time between working to qualify, as well as already gaining experience in the trade, this is essential for where she wants to head in her career. Uncovering the story of her journey so far, you discover her drive and passion for fashion, the industry, and where she wants to head whilst carrying with her what she believes in.
We first met Emily in the summer months, it was a fortuitous meet on a rogue visit to Butterwalk whilst passing through Totnes. We found her sitting at the back of the first floor alone in the workshop, sculpting together a silhouette of men's trousers on one of the shop's sewing machine banks. Open to talk and share her learnings with intrigued listeners, Emily opened up about the shop, its methods and its ethos in an energy-packed quarter of an hour. Fast forward to mid-November, we were sitting amongst a busy workshop and the hustle and bustle of a Friday in the shop. Joined on the day by Polly, Sigrid and Sarah, we sat and discussed further what's next for fashion, and what’s next for Emily.
“It’s all about marching to the beat of your own drum whether this be NAAi NAAi/ Butterwalk or your journey, keeping what is most important to you always at the forefront will keep you on the right path.” - Emily Woodall.
Moving towards the end of the final year of her fashion degree, Emily speaks of being inspired by current brands such as Ganni, Molly Goddard, and Simone Rocha, as well as her admiration for former students who come back to the Arts University to give back, or even start their projects from the workshop studios. Emily works at Butterwalk part time in a role offered to her by owner Suzanne after initially joining in an internship role roughly a year ago. She recalls starting nervously inexperienced on her first few days, before seizing her opportunity when Suzanne asked if anyone had used the button hole machine before, having had a little experience in previous early roles, Emily jumped on the job and with that she was off on her way to bedding into the Butterwalk family before she knew it.
Growing within the first year to be creating all sorts of different types of garments, working the shop floor first-hand with clients, and also contributing to the ideas for the next wave of NAAi NAAi apparel, you could say she’s come far. She stated “A say yes attitude and spending time honing the small skills that some would see as mundane make you a more rounded package with many strings to your bow for the future”. Emily recalls that it’s all about creating your own luck, being present and pushing forward, then in turn the opportunities will start revealing themselves.
Emily speaks of an upbringing with hard working parents, with her father being a carpenter with his own business. She explains how their hard working ethos has translated into the mindset she has today. Setting out with the mindset of making yourself unsackable to any prospective employer through hard work, dedication to the cause and a can-do attitude, teaches you what it takes to go far and really build a great foundation.
When asked about sustainability, she spoke of how “sustainability is important but we also need to put more of the spotlight on ethics as it’s at the core of sustainability. No new clothing is 100% sustainable in truth but as long as you are being as transparent as possible, and you are putting the building blocks in place for a positive future, that's all we can really ask for”.
Emily recalls seeing the stage adaptation of The Devil Wears Prada with her coursemates, highlighting her love for the section in which Miranda Priestley played by Vanessa Williams on stage and Meryl Streep on screen, talks of how a colour is chosen for you. In the film adaptation, Miranda explains that Andrea’s “choice” of a blue sweater isn’t unique or random but the result of deliberate, top-down decisions in the fashion industry, underscoring fashion’s powerful influence over personal style
Miranda says:
"This… stuff"? Oh, okay. I see, you think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select, I don’t know, that lumpy blue sweater, for instance, because you’re trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don’t know is that that sweater is not just blue. It’s not turquoise. It’s not lapis. It’s actually cerulean.
You’re also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent--wasn’t it?--who showed cerulean military jackets? I think we need a jacket here. And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin.
However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs, and it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you’re wearing a sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room… from a pile of "stuff."
This monologue brilliantly illustrates how high fashion influences even the most seemingly mundane wardrobe choices, emphasising the reach and impact of the fashion industry.
When it comes to creating garments from scratch, it takes time, patience and perseverance. This also rings true in making your mark in the world of fashion. In today's world of every man and his dog seemingly starting an online clothing brand, looking to follow a true path to design and make clothes for the love of the art sets you in good stead for the long run. Whether it’s Emily just starting on her journey with the world at her feet, or someone who has honed years in the game, always returning to Emily’s mention of “Marching to the beat of your drum” is the learning from this message, and the effort to create resilience to not stray from your true values is something we can all carry forward.
